The oil quench is well suited to a large blade where toughness is more needed whereas the brine quench is more suited to the small skinner and folder blades where holding an edge is important. Once thoroughly heated, slowly cool in the furnace by dropping the temperature 20 … If they are wrapped individually you may consider placing them in an optional furnace rack. Remove blades and place them aside for room temperature cooling. I make custom handmade heirloom quality knives. Note when heat treating multiple blades keep ample space between each blade for proper air circulation. Generally, most guys heat to temperature in their forge as the last heat of the day, turn off the forge and let the steel cool in the forge overnight. Heating coals evenly will ensure proper heating of a knife blade. This is what it looks like when I "heat treat" a blade. 500F yields approximately 59-60RC which is where most will want this steel. Most high carbon steels are generally not cryo treated as the benefit to carbon steels is usually not as significant as it is with the newer super stainless steels. Many use their kitchen oven for this. Normalizing: Normalize by bringing to 1600F, soak for 4 minutes and allowing it to cool in still air. You can experiment for other hardness's but 61 is a very good target for these steels. We use liquid nitrogen for cryo but dry ice in acetone will also do. Overheating steel into the 1550F 1600F range and beyond and soaking it will grow grain. Step 2: Normalizing. Non-magnetic is around 1425F. After placing the blades in the 220°F temperature they should remain at this heat for 2 hours. As a rule of thumb there should be a gallon of oil for each pound of steel. In practice, we have used it successfully with our own blades without problem. Step 3 Remove the knife blade from the charcoal carefully with a pair of metal tongs. It barely left a scratch on the surface. Of course, unless you can calibrate the probe, you still don’t really know do you? Moving a blazing hot piece of steel from heat to oil is where a lot of fires get started. Questions and Answers provided by Rob Ridley of Ranger Original. We used to use weights for the pressure, but now we use clamps. In practice, you heat the blade and keep touching a magnet to the blade. Then finally I start cleaning the blade and sanding it down which brings it closer to what it will look like finished. Q2:  Why do you leave blades in the foil to plate quench them. A few minutes at this temperature will not grow grain but does allow the carbon to get “into solution”. The golden straw color you see in the picture below is the sign of a proper heat treat. An electronic probe and thermocouple is the best way to check, though can be expensive. Below are listed the approximate Rockwell Hardness achieved at the various temperatures. Place aside for cooling. That doesn’t mean you only have 1 second to get from your heat source to your quench. Hardness 62 61 59 58 56 55 54 53 This steel gets double tempered at 400F degree for about RHC60. Hint; Avoid getting closer to heating coils than necessary. Experiment at your own risk. I recommend that also. The blade is placed in a heat treat oven and brought to a specific temperature. Place in furnace and heat to 1900°F. Step by Step 7. Because we treat other maker’s blades, we choose to use only 309SS foil. Always be prepared for a fire. It increases initial hardness between 1.5 to 2 points and even though you may temper back to softer levels, the steel has been more completely transformed to a tough and desirable state. 2 pieces for an average hunter and four for a big bowie. The blade should be quenched either point first or spine first in order to minimize the chance of cracking or warping. 4. Drawing the Temper of the Blade A10:  Yes. https://usaknifemaker.com/heat-treat-information-data-faq.html Tempering is accomplished basically baking them in an oven at a much lower temperature then the heat treat temperature. ​​ This is where I tested the hardness with a hardness test file. We recommend that you use tweezers. At this time the blades need to go into the oil very quickly.
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